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Towerguys baron project part 17 (Read 1710 times)
May 26th, 2011 at 6:18am

Towerguy   Offline
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Auckland, New Zealand

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Hi guys
just a quick update to show I'm still plugging away slowly (Oh so slowly!).
I have been working on the engine instrument panel lately - I did look at the prebuilt ones but they are so hugely overpriced that I decided to give it a go myself.

first the parts, some servos via trademe on the internet, bought in bulk, so cheaper. some plastic gearing from a local electronic shop and some from recycled printers and the plastic was recovered from the roadside inorganics collection.
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Then it was cut the plastic into shape and cut mounting holes for the servos.
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then I decided I better make a prototype first just to check I was on the right track.
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Back to fitting the servos
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Then making up the layers of the instruments and the panel to attach them all to.
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The local electronics store wanted $14 for a packet of half a dozen metal spacers - Yeah right! - at Bunnings ( a local trade store) I get a packet of plastic wall inserts, all the same size, 25 in a packet, for about $8.
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Then its glueing the gears onto the servo horns.
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This is the production line. Underneath you can see the faces printed out. This is a draft copy on plain paper - I think the final copy will be done on a sticky backed paper to glue onto the plastic sheet.
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Thats progress so far.
Cheers all.
 
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Reply #1 - May 27th, 2011 at 12:53am

beaky   Offline
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Shocked
Glad to see you are still plugging away at this project; looking good!
 

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Reply #2 - May 29th, 2011 at 8:46am

ermias   Offline
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Hello Towerguy,

Project looks good; hope to see more updates as time permits. One of my hopes is to be able to make steam gauge like standby instruments. 

Two questions:
How do you cut out the rectangle? Plexiglass has been a nightmare for me.
What software and interfacing circuit are you going to use?

Thanks,

ermias
 

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Reply #3 - Jun 9th, 2011 at 7:10am

Towerguy   Offline
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Hi ermias
the rectangle I cut from a larger piece using a bandsaw. I fed it through very slowly to avoid it splitting and cracking. I left about 1mm to file down by hand around the outside of each rectangle.

the smaller internal rectangles were first marked and then drilled  - very slowly and carefully - so I could slide a saw blade through before reconnecting the handle and cutting by hand. Once again I cut leaving a small margin to file down by hand until I reached a good fit with the servo.

A good idea is to make up a metal or thin wooden template to clamp over the plastic so all the holes end up in the same place. Also I find that going very slowly when pressing the drill into the acrylic helps stop it grabbing or splitting.

Hope this helps
Cheers.
 
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Reply #4 - Jun 9th, 2011 at 12:34pm

machineman9   Offline
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Towerguy wrote on Jun 9th, 2011 at 7:10am:
I fed it through very slowly to avoid it splitting and cracking. I left about 1mm to file down by hand around the outside of each rectangle.

Using some masking tape around the outside of the line you're cutting can also help to prevent cracks.

Looks good so far though  Wink
 

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Reply #5 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 4:33pm

Towerguy   Offline
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Auckland, New Zealand

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Hi again ermias

sorry, I just noticed the second part of your question, the interfacig is by opencockpits using the usb servo and master boards and programming in SIOC. Thats the plan anyway.

cheers
 
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Reply #6 - Jul 13th, 2011 at 9:27am

JBaymore   Offline
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Looking great Towerguy.  I understand about the "slow" bit......... my work has been totally put on hold due to "life" at the moment.  Can't WAIT to get back to it.

best,

...........john
 

... ...Intel i7 960 quad 3.2G LGA 1366, Asus P6X58D Premium, 750W Corsair, 6 gig 1600 DDR3, Spinpoint 1TB 7200 HD, Caviar 500G 7200 HD, GTX275 1280M,  Logitec Z640, Win7 Pro 64b, CH Products yoke, pedals + throttle quad, simpit
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