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Long Exposures (Read 387 times)
Aug 21
st
, 2011 at 5:36pm
skoker
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Colonel
Jordan never wore his
safety goggles...
1G3
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Posts: 4611
I've had my Canon Rebel T2i for a while now and I love using it in conjuncture with the EOS utility, but I can never seem to get quality to be anywhere near what I would like it to be. The photos usually have so much noise its not funny. Is there some trick to getting minimal noise and having pictures turn out like
this
after exposures upwards of an hour long?
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Reply #1 -
Aug 21
st
, 2011 at 6:07pm
BigTruck
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Tuscaloosa, AL
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Make sure your ISO is at it's lowest setting. The more ISO, the more noise.
Also, often times shots like the one you posted for an example are numerous exposures layered into one.
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Reply #2 -
Aug 21
st
, 2011 at 6:47pm
expat
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Deep behind enemy lines!
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Truck is right, a low ISO, down to around 50 if you can. The other thing is a very hight F stop otherwise the aircraft lights will burn the shot at the first pass. Really the only way to do a picture like this is patience and "BLF"
Matt
PETA
People Eating Tasty Animals.
B1 Boeing 737-800 and Dash8 Q-400
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Reply #3 -
Aug 21
st
, 2011 at 9:14pm
BigTruck
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I was going to mention fstop too but I wasn't positive, thanks Matt.
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Reply #4 -
Aug 21
st
, 2011 at 9:40pm
skoker
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Jordan never wore his
safety goggles...
1G3
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I always leave my ISO at 100 and usually use F22 or so in my aperture, it still gives me lousy results.
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Reply #5 -
Aug 22
nd
, 2011 at 12:05am
f-35simpilot
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Coquitlam, Beautiful B.C.
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Look at the settings I used for this night shot
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hornethunter/5944219193/meta/in/photostream..
. A few quick tips, do not underexpose, use the lowest iso possible as well as find the most sturdy surface possible (tripods are great but if it is windy it is useless)
Carriers would be so mush easier to land on if they would just stop turning!!!
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Reply #6 -
Aug 22
nd
, 2011 at 5:26am
expat
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Deep behind enemy lines!
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skoker wrote
on Aug 21
st
, 2011 at 9:40pm:
I always leave my ISO at 100 and usually use F22 or so in my aperture, it still gives me lousy results.
What exposure times are you using. The example picture is in the region of 30 minutes maybe more judging by the star trails. Also are you using any filters? And I hate to ask (
), but you are using a tri-pod
Matt
PS, post a shot you have taken, it is a lot easier to diagnose the problems
PETA
People Eating Tasty Animals.
B1 Boeing 737-800 and Dash8 Q-400
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Reply #7 -
Aug 22
nd
, 2011 at 12:28pm
machineman9
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Nantwich, England
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A careful consideration with a small aperture... You will start to pick up the dirt from the lens and the sensor in your images.
In your camera you will have options for automatic noise reduction, and in Digital Photo Professional you'll also have a section to enable and control noise reduction. By the way, be sure to shoot in RAW format
ONLY!
You'll have so much more control over the images, which will make it far easier to post process and control exposure/noise reduction, etc.
Furthermore, you may be able to get away with a wider aperture if you buy a neutral density filter. They're basically filters that are just dark, and their main property is forcing your camera to prolonge the exposure. Your lens isn't the sharpest when it is at it's minimum aperture, they're usually sharpest about 2-3 stops down from their widest setting. DXOmark and personal testing should be able to provide you with graphs and results for the sharpest settings for each of your lenses.
But as mentioned, post some images!
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Reply #8 -
Aug 24
th
, 2011 at 2:06pm
Mictheslik
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Me in G-LFSM :D
Bristol, England
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Don't use any in camera noise reduction. Do it all in PP
Shoot RAW...more flexibility in terms of colour balance at night
To get the least noise possible I'd shoot a series of 30 second exposures rather than one that's 30 minutes long. Noise is created by the sensor heating up. If it's continuously processing data for 30 minutes it gets very hot.
Photos can easily be merged in freeware programs designed for star trails.
.mic
[center]
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