how does one start and where do you get the info to repaint an FSX installed a/c

ok igot what you suggested, DXTBmp,serif photo place and gimp.  where do i go from here.

regards

nickeyc

done, cessna 402

ApplePie wrote on Mar 25^th, 2011 at 8:15am:

Actually Christian, that is not 100% accurate. I have painted several times as many without a paint kit as I have with one. Granted, it can sometimes be more work, but sometimes it is easier, IF

you have a paint program that will do layers, like Photoshop and Paint Shop Pro. For example, some paint kits do not give you an idea of where the best place to put a registration or text is and

causes a lot of trial and error. If you create a new layer on the existing texture, you can put your new registration or text on the new layer, above the existing text/registration and then just paint

over the existing on the base layer. Word of caution in doing it this way. To avoid overwriting the original, make a new folder for your paint job. If you don't know what you want to call it yet, just

name it texture.new. You can always rename it later. Then copy all the textures in the original texture folder and paste them in your new folder. Then there is no danger of overwriting the original by

accident. Also, by using a paint program with layer capability, you can create a layer and choose Multiply or Overlay for the layer type and/or change the layer opacity to get the desired effect on layers

below or the base layer. But sometimes, doing it this way requires you to create all the rivets and lines on a layer above the base, because you will end up painting over them on the base layer.

This method is especially useful when you do not want to change the original theme, but just want to do a palette shift (color change).


Almost forgot. To avoid pixilation from opening the file so many times while working on it, the first time you save it, save it as a .psd with separate layers intact. Then instead of opening the texture in

DXTBmp and sending it to editor, you open your .psd file in your paint program to work on it some more. Doing it this way avoids the pixilation and tiny blocks of various colors that really spoil a

good paint. When you are ready to check your work, open DXTBmp, and open your .psd file. Then save the file to your new texture folder as a .bmp or .dds and the level, i.e. DDS DXT5 or

DDS 888 32-bit or an Extended .bmp DXT5.


When doing it this way, you also have the advantage of opening the original and sending the alpha channel to editor. Duplicate it, leaving the duplicate open and your paint program open, and close

the original without saving. Then open your new file and send it's blank alpha to the editor. Copy and paste the duplicate alpha to your blank one. Close and save your now edited alpha and close

the duplicate without saving. Or you can just send the main file to editor, duplicate it, close without saving and send the alpha to editor. Then copy and paste the duplicate to the blank alpha. It

depends on whether you want text and design (stripes, etc.) on the alpha or not.

Just my 2¢.

Here is an example of what can be done with LAYERS. Not only does it make painting easier by allowing you to paint "underneath" lines, rivets, and other details; but you can create different options in your paint kits that you can turn ON and OFF to suit your needs. This is one of my files for the A2A Mustang.

The blue note points to an expanded layer group in Paint Shop Pro. Helps keep stuff organized when a paint kit grows to a ridiculous number of layers.

The purple note points to my "Hamilton Standard" propeller logos. One version has the gold border and the other has white. I turn one ON and the other OFF to match whatever paint scheme I am trying to mimmic. Same goes for the tire treads, wheels, pilot seat, stripes, etc. Notice how many layers I have turned OFF in the middle column of the layer pallett on the right. Once I have the paint kit built with numerous options, then doing repaints is easier as I turn certain layers ON and OFF.

The cyan and green notes point to a temporary layer whose sole purpose is to give me something to create a shadow from. Once the shadow was created I turned the intial layer off and don't use it. You can see the red boxes that I created and don't use in the final product, and the drop shadow that I do use. (This is also handy in making panels.)

To get started I created a backup of my P-51's folder and put it into an "FSX Backup" folder, away from my installation of FSX. I opened a single layer DDS file (in BMPdxt, then Paint Shop Pro) and started replicating lines and rivets first. From there I just added more and more until my wife, dog, and car left me. Seriously, you can spend lots of time on a paint kit, but it's a matter of passion and fun. As long as things are backed up properly then you are free to play with your editing program of choice. Experiment, take notes, and study lots of photos. Have fun with it. And don't try to mimmic what others have done. No one is perfect, but photos are.

Less is often better. It is easy to over-do graphics and the latest cool thing I've learned. Try to keep it subtle and less dramatic.
Imperfect is perfect. Aircraft look much better from further away. When you step up close they appear to be the metal brutes that they are. Panel lines should not be perfect black lines. Use textured black & grays for creating lines and rivets so they fade in and out and nothing is constant.

There is no pure White or Black. Aircraft are dirty, faded, and shiny. For pure white I use RGB 242,240,238. For black I use 16,16,16 gray. I don't use full saturation for colors unless I have an adjustment layer or texture layer on top of them. Less is better. Play around with OPACITY settings for different layers. You can create graphics on a layer, then turn down the opacity setting to change its affect. Too much saturation can make graphics look fake.

You'll want to learn how to use "drop shadows" and "bevels". Shadows and reflections (light) are what make graphics come alive. Proper (and subtle) use of shadows and reflections can make mediocre graphics become life-like. Using drop shadows below lines and rivets makes a huge difference. You can drop a black shadow offset up and to the left, and then drop a white shadow down and to the right and you will end up with a depression (or bump) in the skin around a line of rivets,fastener, etc. Then the OPACITY setting can be changed to make it more subtle.

Hope that helps