Tune Win7 and streamlined FSX tuning, starts with NickN's post on 4/11/10 @ 3:31 PM
http://www.simforums.com/forums/topic34141_post198187.html#198187

Setting up your Nvidia GPU with Nvidia Inspector by NickN
http://www.simforums.com/forums/nhancer-settings-for-new-drivers-updated-v1932_t...

In depth FSX tuning thread by NickN
http://www.simforums.com/forums/setting-up-fsx-and-how-to-tune-it_topic29041.htm...

Try the above for starters and with all your sliders maxed out that maybe why your FPS is so low.  Commercial airline, GA airline, airport vehicles, car, boat and ferry traffic add a lot of work to the CPU and if you have all those maxed out along with having all your scenery sliders maxed out you are probably driving your CPU so much.

I have a 980X @ 4.44GHz and I do not even have all my sliders maxed out!

Matt200 wrote on Mar 11^th, 2011 at 10:51pm:


So after looking over some stuff, and doing my own tweaking and modifying, I've found that there are quite a few more tricks that may or may not be written somewhere.
For example, unplug the fans from the MB (chassis fans, all but CPU fan and maybe 1 other) and run them on their own dedicated plug from the PSU. That way, the ATX power and MB power supply get as much as possible. This may help your power use and efficiency @ the CPU.
Also, how about your RAM latencies? Maybe a little more volts and you can turn the timings down a level, unless your already at peak.
How much from your 750W does that VC pull @ max? I know that yours is a very powerful card, and the minimum W it needs is still significant.
Have you tried using 3DMark? This may also help you figure out where the deficiencies may be, and it's probably something as simple as a voltage tweak.
You've got better equipment than I do, and you should be enjoying FSX to its smoothest, frame pumpin capacity already.

I hope this helps, or at least helps with a place to start...

Matt200 wrote on Mar 18^th, 2011 at 5:07pm:


80+ certification isn't really all that important, but it has a few testing methods involved in getting the cert that show a constant loaded capacity of 80%+ of the max. It's really just a selling point for the consumer to "feel good" about.
That said, I know in the olden days (8800GTS cards and earlier) NVidia cards were usually slightly more power hungry than the ATI stuff. I don't know about anymore, and my li'l ATI 4870 sucks more juice than a newer 5970 at max! Neighbors tell me that their lights go dim when I turn the PC on...
If you do the math, the min is... 500W? Holy crap! Jeeze! So, O/Cing that one will sharply raise your power consumption. 500W video card, 130W+- for the CPU, the rest for DVD/BluRay players, HDD, RAM, fans, yeah you're probably getting into the max it can do. Good move with the upgrade if you do it.

The RAM latency timing can be a real mess. Improper timings can corrupt program and OS installs, BSOD, or just never start BIOS, resulting in the obligatory CMOS reset. ugh. Read as much as you can about how these work before you just change settings here. I have had my setup for 1 1/2 years now (in it's current form) and still find myself tweaking things on it. Take your time.
That said, you can usually get away with changing almost all CL9 RAM like yours (CL9=the 9-9-9-24 settings you have) to an 8-8-8-20 (CL8) with no problems. Maybe a slight increase in voltage (like from 1.6v standard to 1.77v).

Good luck, and keep working at it! Shove the throttle all the way forward! These new i7's overclock so well.
I still think that intel knew their chips would handle 4+ GHz and sold them at 2.7-3.0 for the bragging rights. Good move though. These CPUs really are smokin fast.

Does 3D Mark 11 give you a CPU score, a GPU score, and then a total like Vantage used to? Or does it give you a 1 number total? Just wondering...

Quote:


EEK! Ok, so there's the difference between generic help and help from an Intel guy. I got AMD stuff, and had no idea about that setting. It may not even be available in your bios, but now at least you know.

That seems fairly fragile, to me, though. 1.6 max? A little sensitive, maybe? Anyway, some RAM start at CL9 @ 1.4V+-, you should be able to throw .1-.2 V at it no matter where its default value is, without any serious problems. If that were always the case, there woulld be no way to get 6-7-6-18 like a couple of these intel hot rod machines are getting.

Electrically, the RAM needs to charge for a few cycles before it does work. If you change the ammount of clock cycles down, you need more voltage to compensate. It is a minute level of change, though now that you know, do not exceed 1.65.
Good work!