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Question: How Do You Shift?



« Created by: ShaneG on: Nov 28th, 2009 at 10:26am »

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How do you shift? (Read 1355 times)
Reply #15 - Nov 29th, 2009 at 3:27pm

gtirob01   Offline
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How do I shift?

I press the clutch in with my left foot, and move the gear selector in an "h" type pattern from 1 to 6. The proper way!  Grin
 

My specs... A hard drive, motherboard, graphics card, some memory, a keyboard, mouse, and monitor - in other words, nothing special.
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Reply #16 - Nov 30th, 2009 at 5:22am

expat   Offline
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gtirob01 wrote on Nov 29th, 2009 at 3:27pm:
How do I shift?

I press the clutch in with my left foot, and move the gear selector in an "h" type pattern from 1 to 6. The proper way!  Grin



You may feel superior now, but I bet you are driving with front wheel drive.........Front wheel drive, the work of the devel Smiley Smiley Smiley

Matt
 

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Reply #17 - Nov 30th, 2009 at 3:45pm

Ivan   Offline
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Clutch pedal, 5 gears, wheelspin in 1st on wet roads. Park in reverse gear if you want to get the keys out...
And i want an ECU update to 185hp...
 

Russian planes: IL-76 (all standard length ones),  Tu-154 and Il-62, Tu-134 and An-24RV&&&&AI flightplans and repaints can be found here
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Reply #18 - Nov 30th, 2009 at 5:34pm

gtirob01   Offline
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expat wrote on Nov 30th, 2009 at 5:22am:
gtirob01 wrote on Nov 29th, 2009 at 3:27pm:
How do I shift?

I press the clutch in with my left foot, and move the gear selector in an "h" type pattern from 1 to 6. The proper way!  Grin



You may feel superior now, but I bet you are driving with front wheel drive.........Front wheel drive, the work of the devel Smiley Smiley Smiley

Matt


FWD yes.... but at the time when I bought it, AWD was not available in the US on the GTI. But now.... thats a different story!
 

My specs... A hard drive, motherboard, graphics card, some memory, a keyboard, mouse, and monitor - in other words, nothing special.
&&
...
&&My Posky 777 VC settings - http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1218341439&&Posky 777 and FSX jetways - http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1228448408
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Reply #19 - Dec 1st, 2009 at 1:44am

beaky   Offline
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ShaneG wrote on Nov 29th, 2009 at 6:39am:
Try this, (I had a 1988 5.0 with the same issue),  When you go to shift, push the clutch in, take it out of gear, let off the clutch and blip the throttle, then re-engage the clutch and shift into the next gear.

What is happening the other way is, when you push the clutch in and take it out of gear, the flywheel and clutch plates start to spin at different speeds, and won't synch up when you go to shift, thus why it is so hard. 
By letting off of the clutch and blipping the throttle, you are spinning them both back up to the same speed, and they sync up smoothly.

I learned this by driving a semi-truck.  Grin  Wink


I also learned that with trucks- not semis, but rather old Ford and Mercedes straight jobs. The problem with this vehicle is that it sometimes just won't go in the slot despite any amount of finessing with clutch and throttle. No clashing gears or anything (except for the reverse thing, sometimes)- it just won't go. I can double-clutch and feather it all day and it just will not engage. I get what you are saying about the flywheel and clutch plate, but I've found that the technique described usually doesn't work. I'll have to coast in neutral up to a stop, blipping and trying like crazy to get it in gear- any gear- and it just won't go half the time.  I used to see 5.0 drivers doing this approaching red lights and think "OK, a-hole, we get it, it's a big V-8"... now I know what they were really doing. Cheesy Cheesy


Hagar wrote on Nov 29th, 2009 at 6:56am:
Sounds like double de-clutching they used on the old crash gearboxes.

I imagine the Mustang has a hydraulically operated clutch so this won't apply. I once had a Vauxhall Viva with a cable operated clutch. If the engine earth (ground) lead broke or became corroded it earthed via the easiest route, directly through the clutch cable. This melted the nylon outer & it became difficult to operate, eventually seizing solid. The cure was to fit a new earth lead & replace the clutch cable.*

*PS. I just found out that the Mustang has a cable-operated clutch so this might be worth looking at.


Yes. it is cable-actuated- and it is "self adjusting", which may need adjusting, itself. Grin
I finally checked the Haynes manual, and they recommend checking it by pulling up on the clutch pedal, then pushing it in and listening for a "click". Did that, heard the click, and it immediately was happier. I'd thought it was the gearbox (not something I want to mess with), but this is different (something I might mess with).
So the next step may be to make sure that whole mechanism is rigged right. I guess it's worth doing, despite having to remove the steering wheel to do it... whoever last worked on this (and it was recently) mis-aligned the steering wheel when they put it back on, apparently, and I've been meaning to fix that, it drives me batty. Can't take a quick look at the water temp without turning left... Cheesy
 

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Reply #20 - Dec 1st, 2009 at 2:33am

Hagar   Offline
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beaky wrote on Dec 1st, 2009 at 1:44am:
Yes. it is cable-actuated- and it is "self adjusting", which may need adjusting, itself. Grin
I finally checked the Haynes manual, and they recommend checking it by pulling up on the clutch pedal, then pushing it in and listening for a "click". Did that, heard the click, and it immediately was happier. I'd thought it was the gearbox (not something I want to mess with), but this is different (something I might mess with).
So the next step may be to make sure that whole mechanism is rigged right. I guess it's worth doing, despite having to remove the steering wheel to do it... whoever last worked on this (and it was recently) mis-aligned the steering wheel when they put it back on, apparently, and I've been meaning to fix that, it drives me batty. Can't take a quick look at the water temp without turning left... Cheesy

Check that ground lead while you're at it.
 

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