Simviation Forum - A/C Problems in 2006 KIA Sorento

Aug 11^th, 2009 at 9:57pm

Capt.Propwash Offline
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hey guys,

i thought i would try here to see if any one could help me with an Air Conditioning problem.

I just found out tonight about an hour ago that my A/C no longer works. When i turn it on, I here the compressor kick on under the hood, but the blower is not blowing. I have located the AC Blower Relay, but i have no clue as to if it is bad or good (it is solid color light grey on ALL sides and top).

My question, is the relay a N.O. or N.C. (Normally Open / Normally Closed). I do have a OHMs meter / multimeter so I can check it for continuity, just i dont know if it is N.O. or N.C..

If anyone knows anything about car electrical relays, it would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Reply #1 - Aug 14^th, 2009 at 3:43am

eno Offline
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Derbyshire UK

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I'm no auto electrician so my first port of call would be to phone Kia, or a local garage and ask them about the settings for the relay before testing it.
Another solution might be to spend a few quid on a new relay, replace the original and then check if things are working, if not then it's more serious.

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Reply #2 - Aug 15^th, 2009 at 3:17pm

gtirob01 Offline
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You could just buy another relay as they are pretty cheap, but before even doing that.... look around the fuse/relay box and see if you can find a relay just like the one for the blower motor. You can simply swap the relays to see if anything changes on either end. If the relay is indeed bad, then the component that you now have it plugged into will not work, and vice versa. Not having the proper electrical schematics its kind of hard to speculate the problem, but to me its something in the motor, and not even A/C related.

On Honda's its pretty common for the blower motor resistor to go out. When this happens, an easy test is to simply turn the fan speed all the way up to see if it comes on. Doing this completes the circuit with no resistance, allowing the motor to come on. Of course, it can just go out completely as well. Not sure if the Kia's have a similar setup or not... but it would be something to look into.

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Reply #3 - Aug 27^th, 2009 at 2:46pm

Ivan Offline
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1: Does the AC work even whitout the blower working (still cold air from the vents)
2; Do you still have the max speed setting of the blower.

For 1:
If it works, its not the switch that has gone dead (AC should give cold air on any setting except zero)

For 2:
If you still have max blower speed then its the speed resistors that have died / melted.

Usually the big relay boxes have multiple relays... so if one went dead there should be more inop devices

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Reply #4 - Aug 27^th, 2009 at 9:36pm

Capt.Propwash Offline
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well.... its more #1... but not so much anymore.

4 fan speed levels on the dash. with the blower motor IN.

NONE

of the 4 levels would blow at all. there is a forced air (coming from outside) through the vents that is barely noticable, and if turned completely off, forced air stops.

right now, i have the blower motor out of the dash, and now that it is out... i litterally have NOTHING. not even the forced air from outside. I guess it had to go though the fan just to get to the dash vents. oh well. at least the weather is SLOWLY starting to come down to low 90's from the 105-115 days. Cheesy

WRONG VEHICLE!!!!!! but this is the part that I believe has gone bad. With it out of the dash, i can freely spin the fan blades (white part) so I know it is not frozen, just it will not spin when power is applied to it. I DO have power up to the plug that plugs into this motor, but it will not work.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-Kia-Sportage-heater-blower-motor-Great-Condi...

Theory question. There are 2 wires coming to this unit. I have tested them with a GREENLEE multimeter and have found that it gets 12v power. can I take 2 wires direct from the battery and touch them to the prongs on the motor to see if i can induce it to spin?? if it truely is this part that is bad, oh well i need a new one anyways right??? lol Cheesy

The thoughts and expressions contained in the post above are solely my own, and not necessarily those of Simviation.com, its Moderators, its Staff, its Members, or other guests. They can not, are not, and will not be held liable for any thoughts, or expressions, or posts that I have made, or will make in the future.

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Reply #5 - Aug 29^th, 2009 at 4:28pm

gtirob01 Offline
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You can absolutely use jumper wires from the battery directly to the blower motor. You should be able to tell which wire is power, and which is ground. I use this method often to diagnose blower problems. Direct battery voltage to the blower motor will not harm it, as it would get that voltage anyways in normal use. If the blower works, then your eyes will do this Cheesy

haha

My specs... A hard drive, motherboard, graphics card, some memory, a keyboard, mouse, and monitor - in other words, nothing special.&&&&My Posky 777 VC settings - http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1218341439&&Posky 777 and FSX jetways - http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1228448408

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Reply #6 - Aug 31^st, 2009 at 10:20pm

Capt.Propwash Offline
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thanks for the help guys. I recently took out a hair bit of frustration on the blower motor tapping it somewhat gently but firmly... then I put it back in just to try it. Low and behold.. the darn thing works now. Cheesy

< me going crazy Thanks anyways guys

The thoughts and expressions contained in the post above are solely my own, and not necessarily those of Simviation.com, its Moderators, its Staff, its Members, or other guests. They can not, are not, and will not be held liable for any thoughts, or expressions, or posts that I have made, or will make in the future.

Computer Specs:: Acer Aspire Laptop..Win7 Home Premium 64-bit (sp1), AMD Athlon II X2 P340 (Dual Core) [2.2 Ghz], ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4250 (256mb), 4GB DDR3......FS9.1(sp3) / FSX (sp2)..... Ultimate Terrain X, Ground Environment X, REX, FTX ORBX PNW-PFJ-NRM-CRM, OZx, Tongass Fjords, Misty Moorings

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Reply #7 - Sep 4^th, 2009 at 2:53pm

gtirob01 Offline
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If tapping on it made it work, then that will mean your blower motor is going bad. Likely some bad or broken contacts inside causing the problem.

My specs... A hard drive, motherboard, graphics card, some memory, a keyboard, mouse, and monitor - in other words, nothing special.&&&&My Posky 777 VC settings - http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1218341439&&Posky 777 and FSX jetways - http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1228448408

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Reply #8 - Dec 3^rd, 2009 at 5:08pm

DALflier Offline
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I have a similar problem as reported in original post. Blower works okay in position 4, but 1-3 are dead. Ivan suggests speed resistors are dead. Is that part of the switch or a relay? Where do I start digging to find out? Thanks.

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Reply #9 - Dec 4^th, 2009 at 2:25pm

Ivan Offline
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No, I'm NOT Russian, I
only like Russian aircraft
The netherlands

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@dal: In my car its a pack of resistors plugged in the circuit that lower the power in the low range. They were located on the side of the ventilation splitter box on the passenger side

Usually that thing is located somewhere close to the blower motor or the switch. Depending on your car you have to remove part of the dash, or you have to reach the resistor pack from the engine side

Best tip: search for "[your car type] fan speed resistor" (excluding the quotes)

Russian planes: IL-76 (all standard length ones), Tu-154 and Il-62, Tu-134 and An-24RV&&&&AI flightplans and repaints can be found here

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Reply #10 - Dec 5^th, 2009 at 11:24am

The Ruptured Duck Offline
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Wichita, KS

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Autozone could probably help you with this one. They have been very helpful in my experience

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