SubZer0 wrote on Jan 7
th, 2009 at 12:36pm:
that's it then. OC done with this new system.
thanks so much for all your help Nick, you rock dude!
No problem
Andy after a bit of a break in period you may want to remove the 120 and reseat it. At the same time when you remove it try to keep it steady as it is unscrewed from the 4 mounts and pull it strait up so you can observe any marks on the proc left by the heatsink and the thermal compound.
Your powers of observation will have to kick in but look to see if it seems like the heatsink was sitting flush on the slug. If it looks like there is a high or low spot that may explain higher temps
Now, I do not want you to do anything to the HS or the proc because that will void the warranty.. (like overclocking doesn't LOL) but I personally do a lap job on my processor and heatsinks to be sure they are flat.
The 120 is NOT easy to do because of its size. Its very cumbersome to try and hold the unit strait over sandpaper on a flat glass surface with my fingers passed through the pipes at the base and get my palm over the base to slide the unit flat back and forth. I use water and wet-type automotive sandpaper for that part becasue the water acts like a lube and makes it easier to sand, but its a real PITA.
The processor is much easier to sand flat and there are tutorials around that show how its done. You do not need to sand them to a mirror finish.. its not necessary. The goal is to get them flat with the tin and nickel removed down to copper, and, to get rid of any large grain marks but a pure mirror reflective finish is not necessary.
there are risks when you do things like that too.
However I have usually found a good 5-10c difference in making sure the contact between the HS and the processor is flat and as much surface as possible on both are making contact.
I don’t do that till about a month or so after initial use to be sure everything is working and stable prior to doing it. I have yet to trash a processor that way but like anything else in life, it is a risk.
One thing you do need to be aware of is even just taking a few layers of material off the proc and HS and getting them down to flat copper can make the distance between them further slightly. I used a washer made out of high impact fiber to act as a spacer to tighten the gap between the top of the HS plate and the X bracket center. The hole in the washer acts as center guide to the screw in the X bracket.
The newer 120 units I am told do not have gap issues however its something you need to observe and decide about
Those are just suggestions for you to consider.