Good series to show IS.

As my fellow Belgium Digital members state... IS is good on static objects at longer exposure-times. ( though the cat seems a bit out of focus  )

How's your experience with handheld shots? Most members claim that you need an exposure-time equal at the focal length * the cropfactor of the camera ( ex. 1/200 * 1.6 at 200 mm = 1/320) to be able to get sharp shots without movement-unsharpness. IS would take this 2 to 3 stops down.  

And another question, can you show the magnification of this lense. Ex a photo of the same area at 100 mm, 300 mm and at 400 mm. I'm dying to know what big a difference the extra 100 mm makes...

Omag 2.0 wrote on Dec 29^th, 2007 at 8:24am:


When using a film configured camera, to get a 1:1 ratio without any real magnification power, the normal 50-55 mm lens is about the starting point. Therefore, a 100mm would be about 2:1 and so on......300mm will yield about 6 times mag. These are only rough numbers, but can be used in a pinch to determine how much larger you can see what you shoot.
Digital brings in a whole new dimension to the scope of things as the higher the res, then the more you can crop in magnification by shooting more resolution than the optput of your monitor. Resolution for print should still be 300 dpi (pixels) or higher . As I said, not hard and fast, these factors are close enough to give some basic idea of what you shoud see.