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Overclocking 101 (Read 831 times)
Jul 7
th
, 2005 at 11:34pm
the_autopilot
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Colonel
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Posts: 1359
Since many people come to this forum asking over and over about overclocking, I have decided to make a (legit) post on overclocking. This is not an extensive guide on how to do it. Rather, it is an introduction/FAQ hybrid to overclocking or O/C'ing. A general idea of how a computer works is needed to understand this guide. This guide only refers to CPU overclocking.
Will an admin please sticky/pin this. Thank you.
Part 1: Intro
Some abbreviations to become familiar with:
o/cing-short for overclocking
mem-memory, sdram (not the hd)
HD-hard drive
CPU-central processing unit
Mobo-motherboard
Vid/gfx card-graphics card
Gigs-gigabyte
Megs-megabytes
Ghz-gigahertz
What is overclocking?
Your CPU runs at a certain clock rate, or speed. The faster the clock rate, the faster the CPU. All CPU's come with stock clock rate. Overclocking is the process of raising the clock rate of a CPU beyond, or over, the stock clock rate (hence the name overclocking). A faster clock rate yield better performance.
Pros of overclocking:
-More performance on the same CPU
Cons:
-May require more equipment (better heatsinks, memory, etc.)
-Uses more power (power bills do add up)
-May (in fact, probably will) void the warranty of the CPU, memory, mobo, etc.
-causes CPU to produce more heat
-risky
Should I overclock?
If you need to ask this question, then probably the answer will be no. Overclocking is risky and if you don’t know what you’re doing, you can damage (sometimes permanently) your computer. In worst case scenario’s (especially with older AMD CPU’s), you could set your computer case on fire.
How do you overclock?
Through the BIOS. Generally accessed during the post screen by pressing f2 or f9 or the del key. The core voltage, the FSB, and the multiplier control the speed of your CPU. Increasing these values will increase your CPU’s clock rate. Tweaking these values is beyond the scope of this guide. BTW, if you need to ask this, you probably shouldn’t overclock.
If you can overclock, why not buy a cheap Pentium 4 and overclock to 5 ghz?
You can, but that’s not practical. A Pentium 4 overclocked to 5 ghz would produce a lot of heat and would be very unstable. It may not even boot up.
Can you overclock too much, and if you can and do, what happens?
Assuming you have a sufficient cooling solution, your CPU would become inaccurate in its processing. Your computer may crash randomly, windows may not start up, and certain apps may crash. Your computer may not even boot up in some (really bad) cases.
What happens if you o/c too much and don’t have a sufficient cooling solution?
Get some chicken wings and some BBQ sauce…
(I prefer hickory flavor for the sauce)
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Jul 7
th
, 2005 at 11:34pm
the_autopilot
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Colonel
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Posts: 1359
Part 2: Heating:
The faster a CPU’s clock cycle, the more energy it uses and the more heat it will produce. Make sure your current CPU cooling solution can handle it. Generally, OEM’s (like dell) put a heatsink plus fan to cool the CPU. These fans are cheap and only are effective at stock clock speeds. They are not suitable for o/c’ing. There are many ways to cool a CPU and I will discuss some of them.
Air:
Used by most OEMs. OEM air coolers are not good for o/c’ing. After-market coolers can be very effective at cooling o/c’ed CPU’s depending on how good they are. Good air coolers for o/c’ing use copper heatsinks and a fast powerful 120 mm fan. Ability to overclock with air is limited though. Generally, even the best heatsinks with fans are fairly cheap (around 50 USD). It is highly practical.
Water/liquid:
Used by most overclockers. Uses a water block attached to a heatsink to cool the CPU. The water is usually connected via piping to a pump and a reservoir; a radiator is also included in the system to cool the coolant. Generally, water is used as the coolant, but other coolants can be used. Ability to overclock with water/liquid is fairly decent; in addition, the PC is much more silent. Costs are higher than air, though the cost is not staggering. It costs more depending on how much heat the system needs to remove and also if you want to cool other components as well (like the chipset or vid card). (Anywhere from 100 USD to 2000 USD for kits, custom jobs can go higher).
Heatpipe:
Generally used with another method. All heat pipes do is move heat. They have no ability to remove heat. Practicality depends on situation.
Peltier:
Used by stupid people. It uses obscene amounts of electricity to remove heat. It’s not very efficient and rather complicated to setup. It generally used in combination with water or heatpipes. It can however cool the CPU below ambient temperature. This means higher clock speeds can be reached than with air or water like the aforementioned 5 ghz. Costs are high both for equipment and for maintenance. This thing eats power faster than you can say "Holy *^%" when looking at the power bill. Impracticality is written all over this type of cooling.
Vapochill/cascade cooling/vapor phase:
Used really serious overclockers. It uses the same tech that your refrigerator uses to cool the CPU. Temperatures will go below 0*C. You can overclock a lot with this type of cooling. It does use quite a lot of power (not nearly as much as peltiers). This type of cooling is similar in cooling ability to peltiers. If you can afford this kind of cooling, its actually somewhat practical. It is however prohibitively expensive. (700 USD to 5000 USD, although stuff that costs higher than 3000 is usually a custom job).
Liquid Nitro:
Used by insane overclockers who have been shocked one too many times by the power supply. CPU temperatures are generally -200*C. You can reach insane clock speeds with this cooling. It’s not practical. It’s effect is generally temporary (unless you want to constantly pour nitrogen into the CPU heatsink container.). It’s pretty expensive and complicated as you need to do most of it yourself and will need to special order parts. (1000 USD to the size of your wallet).
Submersion:
The entire computer case is submerged in non-electrically conductive coolant and then cooled to -90*C or below. Used by…well, I’ve only heard of a few people who have tried it. All of those people have fat wallets and probably suffer from some sort of mental disease. (5000 USD to…well, use your imagination) Its overkill to the extreme and practicality should never be associated with it.
BTW, prices are generalizations. You may find cheaper or more expensive products that fit into each category.
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Jul 7
th
, 2005 at 11:34pm
the_autopilot
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Part 3: OEM
If you have an OEM computer (HP, Dell, etc.), generally, you won’t want to and can’t overclock. OEM’s disable many things in their BIOS’s and this generally includes the multipliers, FSB, etc. controls. Plus, OEM”s give you the bare minimum in terms of cooling, so your CPU fan probably can’t handle much more. Also, it voids the warranty and they WILL refuse to repair/replace it.
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Reply #3 -
Jul 8
th
, 2005 at 7:46am
Mehdi
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Colonel
I wish...
London, England
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EXCELLENT guide with extensive information on just about everything to do with overclocking... great work, AP!
Must be made sticky! 8)
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Jul 8
th
, 2005 at 12:22pm
NWISimmer
Ex Member
Well done a_p
Quote:
Liquid Nitro:
Used by insane overclockers who have been shocked one too many times by the power supply. CPU temperatures are generally -200*C.
OMG! If that's for real, that's EXTREME! Will that not harm the CPU? I know you said "short term O/C" but how long can one stay at that low temp?
Nice to see you do a "real" O/C thread...
Rob.
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Reply #5 -
Jul 8
th
, 2005 at 6:09pm
the_autopilot
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Colonel
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Posts: 1359
Quote:
Well done a_p
OMG! If that's for real, that's EXTREME! Will that not harm the CPU? I know you said "short term O/C" but how long can one stay at that low temp?
Nice to see you do a "real" O/C thread...
Rob.
Its for real. I even wanted to do it once, and then a I figured I might as well save the money for a new computer.
http://www.tomshardware.com/cpu/20031230/index.html[
Tom's hardware isn't the only whose done it before btw. The CPU can servive for as long a you want. Its short term only b/c you have to refill the nitrogen after it runs out.
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Reply #6 -
Jul 9
th
, 2005 at 3:32am
Skligmund
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Piper PA-31T3 T1040
Anchorage, Alaska
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I was gonna mention Tom's hardware on that.
Water cooling can be shown here:
http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=tweek;action=display;num=1...
My system, shows a bit more than what you will get in a boxed system. Not shown is the transmission cooler radiator hanging out my window, except in the referenced link.
During winter, CPU die temps can be below 32*F, or 0*C.
MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum&&Athlon64 3700+ San Diego (2200) @ 2750 MHz&&1024MB PC3200 @ 500 MHz (Mushkin V2)&&GeForce 6800GT OC (BFG)&&(2) 80G SATA Seagates RAID0&&(1) Maxtor 250Gb 16MB Cache ATA133&&19
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Reply #7 -
Jul 18
th
, 2005 at 1:43pm
congo
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Colonel
Make BIOS your Friend
Australia
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I read that nitro cooled components can fracture when expanding from their extreme chill after all the fun is over.
The submersion sounds way cool! Especially if it were done in a clear tank with some eerie green lighting...... Muahahahaha! 8)
Mainboard: Asus P5K-Premium, CPU=Intel E6850 @ x8x450fsb 3.6ghz, RAM: 4gb PC8500 Team Dark, Video: NV8800GT, HDD: 2x1Tb Samsung F3 RAID-0 + 1Tb F3, PSU: Antec 550 Basiq, OS: Win7x64, Display: 24" WS LCD
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Reply #8 -
Jul 18
th
, 2005 at 2:52pm
NWISimmer
Ex Member
Quote:
I read that nitro cooled components can fracture when expanding from their extreme chill after all the fun is over.
It's the same with fingers if they come into contact (not advised).... just they snap off..
Now, how much do you want that liquid nitro O/c ?
"I'd give my right arm"
Well you just might...
Rob.
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Reply #9 -
Jul 19
th
, 2005 at 2:10pm
the_autopilot
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Colonel
Gender:
Posts: 1359
Quote:
It's the same with fingers if they come into contact (not advised).... just they snap off..
Now, how much do you want that liquid nitro O/c ?
"I'd give my right arm"
Well you just might...
Rob.
Its not actually that extreme, but I'm not sticking anything in liquid nitro. I actually had liquid nitro in my high school's chemistry lab to play with and it takes a while for an object to become brittle (actual time depends on what object). The instructor put rubber bands in and they froze and when dropped smashed like glass, but he dipped a banana in it for a second or so and then ate it. You would have to soak it in nitro for it to become brittle.
Quote:
I read that nitro cooled components can fracture when expanding from their extreme chill after all the fun is over.
As long as you slowlywarm up the components, you'll be fine. If you finish o/c'ing and then just remove the nitro and throw the components into your closet at room temp, yeah that will happen, but if you ease the temp back up, everything will be fine.
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